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Williamsburg's (and Greenpoint's) restaurants can sometimes tend to the twee and precious, and few indeed are as good as the media make them out to be. But Brooklyn is truly at its best when not trying too hard; when putting imagination and effort into making the simple things in life, like meat loaf, pork sandwiches, and fried chicken.
DuMont is a popular high-end comfort food restaurant in Williamsburg. It has a very good, but not great hamburger and some other B+ / A- dishes, all served in enjoyably rowdy surroundings and with the prototypical uneven Brooklyn service. It absolutely is what it is, and if you are cool with that you will have a great time there.
Conceived originally as a shrine to the perfect country breakfast, Egg may have the best one in New York -- thanks especially to its fabulous biscuits. The dinner is pretty damn good too.
Brooklyn's let-it-roll style works well in the case of barbecue, which is best served in dressed down, funky environments. Unfortunately, it also requires a lot of precision, which Fette Sau doesn't always lay down. The food is excellent, and there are meats smoked here you won't find elsewhere, but they sometimes sit around too long. Go early when they first open, and look for the pork belly if they have it.
Out on the outer rim of civilization, you might be suprised to find this craft cocktail bar, which also happens to serve some really delicious comfort food.
A huge space, a great burger, and one of the best brunches in New York spells success for this truly admirable Greenpoint eatery.
Helmed by one of the co-founders of Momofuku, this is Brooklyn Lardcore at its best: hearty, unpretentious food cooked with special care and served in a rowdy setting.
Rye is in many ways the archetypal New York gastropub. (Fans of The Spotted Pig may disagree.) It's dark and loose-limbed and friendly and it has a delicious meat-heavy menu whose crown jewel is a supercharged meat loaf that puts every other to shame. But the beers are good and the prices low, and it avoids hipster coyness almost entirely.
Yes, it's pretty much what the name implies, but this Williamsburg lardcore mecca produces both on a level rarely seen in NYC. Bring several people so you can eat several pies.
Always in the sweepstakes for the best new southern restaurant in NYC, the Commodore definitely has the most fun vibe. The fried chicken, biscuits with honey butter, and black-eyed peas are all right from the Georgia playbook.
Everybody loves The Meatball Shop. Why? Because everybody likes meatballs, cheap good food, and restaurants that are open very late. The Meatball Shop provides all these things, and in addition, its meatballs are really good. There are pork, veal, beef, chicken, and even some form of vegetarian "meatballs" all in a choice of sauces. You get in, you get out, and you have just enough on your stomach to ground all the beer you had (or are planning to have. )
