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August 18, 2003
Alluring Asian inspiration buoys Pier 70's big budget, cruise ship-style newcomer..
The Story
Paul Mackay, owner of El Gaucho, and Chef Vicky McCaffree met ten years ago at Yarrow Bay Grill. Now, with third partner Joseph Menzyk, they've built Seattle's first waterfront restaurant worth celebrating.
The Food
Water views surround. Waiters sport tuxedos. It's all a bit "Love Boat," but McCaffree's knack for seafood insures the eats will impress beyond the trappings. The seafood steals the show: Understated delicacy penetrates the sesame seed-crusted sea bass, while a dramatic flair marks the "magnificent flavor" fish, which arrives fried whole with head and tail on. Winning starters include meaty Thai crab cakes with basil-avocado aioli, and salt-and-pepper prawns over sweet, spicy Asian slaw.
Straying from seafood can be dicey. The grilled New York "El Gaucho" was tough, and the hazelnut-crusted rack of lamb lacked promised hints of honey and lavender.
If You Order One Thing
Try the impossibly subtle sesame sea bass.
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