Chicago >Food & Dining > Schwa Restaurant
1466 N Ashland Ave, Chicago, IL | Directions 6062241.908943 -87.667825
Tuesday To Saturday From 05:30 PM To 10:30 PM
Neighborhoods: Wicker Park, West Side
Schwa is a fascinating restaurant, a kind of workshop for a brilliant, manic young chef who, I think, is primarily cooking for other chefs. It's hard to get in and not everything is always good, let along great: but if you want to see modernist food in process, up-close, and with no frills, this is the place you need to come to.
Cutting edge dining tucked away in an unassuming Ashland Avenue storefront. – The Scene
The restaurant's gritty surroundings and drawn shades read "Out of Business," but an intimate interior awaits. White linens top 10 cozy tables, crystal chandeliers hang in the two window niches, and the walls and tin ceiling glow a warm light green. Hip-hop beats coming from a semi-open kitchen rock the chefs and keep diners on low-key groove.
Chefs Michael Carlson and Nathan Klingbail emphasize organic ingredients and local growers on their seasonal menu of contemporary American dishes. Table conversation ultimately focuses on the presentation and ambitious flavors, beginning with the plump quail egg-filled ravioli in brown butter and sage sauce. For taste, there's the crunchy and subtly sweet pistachio crust of the monkfish, thanks to a butternut squash ragout and handy swoop of cranberry. For art, there's the vertical band of braised pork belly and sliced tenderloin climbing whimsically onto the shelf of a Villeroy and Boch plate.
ok – menu sounds better than it tastes. you will go home hungry. it's too bad that Lovitt didn't stay. the food was the same price but tastier. the only redeeming factor is the byob.
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