Gorgeous California-French presentations and dishes are delivered at the dining room in Napa's COPIA museum.. The Scene It's no small order to be named after food icon Julia Child, but Julia's Kitchen does an admirable job. The walls of the airy, open room mimic the color of the olive leaves waving outside the windows. Retro elements harkenig back to Julia's fledgling years, like dinette chairs and oversized lampshades, are used with subtlety and a soft touch.
The Food The presentations here are praiseworthy, but it's the tastes that are truly inspiring. Dungeness crab consommé starts as a lump of silken crab on a dab of Meyer lemon confit, with a sheer broth dramatically ladled around at the table. Pan seared shrimp, heady with pancetta and tarragon, comes atop translucent flageolets in a frothy Creamsicle-orange shellfish sauce. Veal short ribs are braised and glazed with a reduction sauce, their stringy, succulent flesh a perfect foil to crisp-tender panko-crusted sweetbreads. A bubblegum-colored port wine reduction matches well with four meaty scallops, with yellowfoot chanterelle mushrooms adding an earthy sweetness.