This is one place where it's okay to play the Occidental Tourist.. In Short This dark, sleek restaurant consistently wins raves from locals who eat up both the dramatic decor and trendy Pan-Asian cuisine with a spoon--or chopsticks, as the case may be. It's organized primarily by cooking style; categories steamed, grilled, sizzled, wokked, noodled, deep-fried and barbecued. Within those styles, however, are specialties from China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia. Everybody loves the signature crackling calamari salad and the deep-fried spinach.